JUNE 2026 · THE JOURNAL

A boat called June

Tom Avery fishes alone from Rye Harbour. We followed one morning’s catch from the quay to the fifth course, including the parts that never appeared on the plate.

The boat leaves before light and is back by nine. What Tom lands decides the middle of the menu, and the call from the quay is the first the kitchen takes each day.

The frames and trimmings go to the stock pots the same morning. By the time the first guest sits down, the whole fish has found its way into three different points of the evening.

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A restaurant that runs on service time

A restaurant that runs on service time

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